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Can anyone point me to any good resources for putting the adjustment end of the truss rod in the headstock instead of in the box. thanks! Tom Harbin

What kind of resources are you looking for? I do mine that way and can probably answer questions.

Hi Paul:

thanks. I think I am looking for what to avoid. I can envision just running my slot toward the headstock instead of toward the soundhole, and having a cover that covers the slot nicely. I currently put the truss rod slot in my neck after the fingerboard surface is jointed and the headstock angle has been cut. Then I use that slot to attach my other jigs to for shaping my neck profile, tenon, etc. Can the head plate be attached after cutting the slot? Thanks for help! Tom

Tom, I also put the adjustment at the head stock.
I run the slot through the neck after the head stock angle has been cut. Depending on the type of truss rod you use, you may need to cut/drill a channel for the truss rod nut. I use a gibson style, single rod truss rod and need to cut the channel like this



This is the tool I had made to drill the channel



I drill the channel after the spline has been set in the neck but before the head stock veneer has been glued on.

You can still cut the truss rod slot and use it to align for your jigs.

I'm sure others will have some ideas, but I think we may need some more specifics to your query.Rod True38685.6901388889

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Good reason for in the peghead is easy access for adjustments without messing with the strings. That is the only advantage I have ever seen. but it is convenient when changing set-ups such as neck relief.

Rod: thanks for the pictures.
It looks like you drill after applying the headstock veneer since it has the same channel appearance as the headstock beneath. What does the rod portion of your custom bit fit into? I have been using the double action truss rod that I buy from LMI. Tom

[QUOTE=Tom Harbin] Rod: thanks for the pictures.
It looks like you drill after applying the headstock veneer since it has the same channel appearance as the headstock beneath. What does the rod portion of your custom bit fit into? I have been using the double action truss rod that I buy from LMI. Tom[/QUOTE]
Tom, there's no reason that you can't cut it after the plate is on with one exception: if the plate goes beyond the surface of the fingerboard portion of the neck, it will raise that area up a bit and make an uneven depth of the cut.

Tom, I drill the main channel in the head stock after I have glued in the spline over the truss rod (there is a thin strip covering on a single rod truss rod called a spline, don't know if you've ever used this), I than remove the truss rod (3/16"dia) and trim the spline to the same plane as the head stock angle. I than insert the drill into the exit hole of the truss rod slot and drill till I have about 3/16-1/4" between the headstock break angle and the flat portion of the drilled channel (hope that made sense). Than I glue on the veneer and after it is glued on, I drill a 3/16" hole through the veneer to the open part of the channel, I than redrill so the veneer matches the channel and it looks like it is all done in one step. The rod on the business end of the drill is a pilot for the bit, it runs in the truss rod slot in the neck, making sure I drill the channel on center of the neck.

Since you use a double rod, I don't know if you need this channel or not, I need it for the nut and washer on the truss rod end.

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Thanks to all for your help. My next build will have the truss rod adjustment in the headstock. tom